What is GDV?
Gastric Dilatation and Volvulus (GDV) is a life threatening disorder most commonly seen in large, deep-chested dogs. The term refers to a gas-filled stomach (bloat) that then twists upon itself. It is a medical emergency that requires surgery to correct.
The exact cause is still unknown. The most common history is a large breed dog that eats or drinks rapidly and then exercises. In recent studies, stress was found to be a contributing factor to GDV. Dogs that were more relaxed and calm were at less risk of developing GDV than dogs described as “hyper” or “fearful”. Sometimes the condition progresses no further than simple gastric dilatation (bloat) but in other instances the huge, gas-filled stomach twists upon itself so that both entrance and exit to the stomach become occluded.
GDV is probably one of the most serious non-traumatic conditions seen in dogs. Immediate veterinary attention is required to save the dog’s life. Statistically we know that large, deep chested breeds are more prone to GDV. These include Great Danes, Saint Bernards, Weimaraners, Irish Setters, Gordon Setters, Standard Poodles, Basset Hounds, Doberman Pinschers, and Old English Sheepdogs. Most commonly the condition occurs two to three hours after eating a large meal.
Gastric dilatation (bloat), usually without volvulus (twist), occasionally occurs in elderly small dogs. The distended stomach pushes the posterior rib cage so that the dog appears swollen or “bloated”. This is most obvious on the left side and gentle tapping of the swelling just behind the last rib often produces hollow, drum-like sounds. The enlarged stomach presses on the diaphragm and breathing becomes labored. The swollen stomach also presses on the larger blood vessels in the abdomen and circulation is seriously compromised, resulting in systemic shock.
Ultimately, the dog collapses and the huge size of the abdomen can be seen as the dog lies on its side.
The gas filled stomach presses on the large veins in the abdomen that carry blood back to the heart, compromising the circulation of blood. Vital tissues become deprived of blood and oxygen, resulting in systemic shock. In addition, the pressure of the gas on the stomach wall results in inadequate circulation to the wall, causing tissue death. Digestion ceases and toxins accumulate in the blood, exacerbating the shock. As the distension continues to build, the stomach wall can rupture.
It is imperative that the pressure on the stomach wall and internal organs is reduced as soon as possible. Immediate veterinary care is vital. The veterinarian may first attempt to pass a stomach tube. If this is not possible due to twisting of the stomach, a large bore needle may be passed through the skin into the stomach to relieve the pressure in the stomach. Shock treatment with administering intravenous fluids and medications will begin immediately. Once the patient has been stabilized, the stomach must be returned to its proper position. This involves major abdominal surgery and may be delayed until the patient is able to undergo anesthesia. The primary goals of surgery are to return the stomach to its normal position, to remove any dead or dying stomach tissues and to help prevent future GDV. In high-risk breeds, some veterinarians recommend prophylactic
gastropexy. Gastropexy is the surgical attachment of the stomach to the
body wall. This does not prevent dilatation (bloat) but does prevent
twisting (volvulus) in the majority of cases. This surgery can sometimes be done at the same time as your pet is being spayed or neutered. Your veterinarian can discuss the technique or combination of techniques best for your pet’s future.
WHERE STATE-OF-THE-ART MEETS STATE-OF-HEART
WE HAVE A FUNDAMENTAL COMMITMENT TO EXCELLENCE IN VETERINARY MEDICINE AND COMPASSIONATE CARE
OUR WELL-EDUCATED TEAM IS COMMITTED TO ENHANCING THE HUMAN-ANIMAL BOND
WE BELIEVE PETS ARE NOT JUST ANIMALS, BUT INTEGRAL MEMBERS OF OUR FAMILIES
WE ADHERE TO THE HIGHEST ETHICAL AND MEDICAL STANDARDS BEFITTING OUR COMPANIONS,
WHILE MEETING AND EXCEEDING OUR CLIENTS' EXPECTATIONS
Wednesday, March 26, 2014
Tuesday, March 18, 2014
I Brake For Opossums
Ticks have a two-year life cycle during which they have three life stages – larva, nymph, and adult. During each stage, the tick gets blood from a host mammal and then molts into the next stage. After an adult lays her eggs, she dies.
When larval ticks hatch from their eggs, they are not infected with the pathogen that causes Lyme disease. Many ticks will never become infected but others, depending on which host animal they get their first blood from, will become infected.
Despite how greasy and grungy opossums may appear, they actually pay lots of attention to their grooming habits. Opossums encounter thousands of ticks on their body on a weekly basis and end up killing 90% of them during their grooming ritual. Mice, on the other hand do a terrible job grooming ticks off themselves. This, in turn makes them a high rate of service to ticks, and gives them a greater tendency to infect those ticks that remain with the Lyme disease pathogen. Below is a table of information from a lecture presented by Dr. Richard S. Ostfeld. Disease Ecologist. Ph.D. Pretty staggering numbers.
Dr. Ostfeld has found that the more diversity of alternate non-mouse hosts there are for ticks to feed on, the lower the number of Lyme disease infected ticks.
This is partly because other host animals don’t infect larval ticks with Lyme disease at the high rate that mice do, partly because the tick burden per white-footed mouse decreases and partly because some of the alternate hosts, like fox, owls and hawks, do a good job of keeping the mice population in check.
Our local wildlife plays an important role in ours lives whether we see it or not. Please do your part to protect them and our environment.
Tuesday, March 11, 2014
Why can't I feed my pet before surgery?
Fasting is a medical term meaning to abstain from all food. The importance of fasting your pet prior to an anesthetic procedure should not go unnoticed. Nobody enjoys looking at those sad, pitiful eyes staring at you and wondering why their human isn't going through the usual everyday routine. No matter how much they try to wear you down, you must stand your ground. In the end, it's for their safety.
Anesthetized patients lose their normal reflex ability to swallow. When an animal swallows, the epiglottis, a cartilage flap that closes over the entrance to the windpipe, prevents food or water from entering the lungs. Like humans, anesthesia can cause nausea. If there is food in the stomach, the animal could vomit while under anesthesia or in the early post-anesthetic period. If vomiting occurs before the swallowing reflex occurs, the vomited material can be aspirated or enter into the lungs, causing aspiration pneumonia. Aspiration pneumonia can usually be treated but it can also end up being life threatening.
If your pet ever has to undergo an anesthetic procedure, make sure you are clear on the directions prior to bringing them in. Cats and dogs typically have the same fasting instructions, but that is not the case in all pets. Rabbits and some small pocket pets do not get fasted due to their fast metabolism. If your pet gets into food or you cave and give them a treat or two within the fasting period, make sure you notify your vet. We usually end up finding out anyways.
Anesthetized patients lose their normal reflex ability to swallow. When an animal swallows, the epiglottis, a cartilage flap that closes over the entrance to the windpipe, prevents food or water from entering the lungs. Like humans, anesthesia can cause nausea. If there is food in the stomach, the animal could vomit while under anesthesia or in the early post-anesthetic period. If vomiting occurs before the swallowing reflex occurs, the vomited material can be aspirated or enter into the lungs, causing aspiration pneumonia. Aspiration pneumonia can usually be treated but it can also end up being life threatening.
If your pet ever has to undergo an anesthetic procedure, make sure you are clear on the directions prior to bringing them in. Cats and dogs typically have the same fasting instructions, but that is not the case in all pets. Rabbits and some small pocket pets do not get fasted due to their fast metabolism. If your pet gets into food or you cave and give them a treat or two within the fasting period, make sure you notify your vet. We usually end up finding out anyways.
Tuesday, March 4, 2014
Top 10 Most Frequent Dog and Cat Toxins of 2013
The items below are presented in order of frequency, with number one being the item that caused the most emergency calls to Pet Poison Helpline.
Dogs: Top 10 Toxins of 2013
- Chocolate: Bakers and dark chocolate are the most toxic. Milk chocolate can also be toxic if ingested in large amounts.
- Xylitol: This sweetener is found in sugarless chewing gum, candy, medications, and nasal sprays and can causes a rapid drop in blood sugar and liver failure in dogs.
- NSAIDs: Ibuprofen, naproxen, etc. Found in products like Advil, Motrin, and Aleve. Dogs don’t metabolize these drugs well so ingestion can result in stomach ulcers and kidney failure.
- Over the counter cough, cold and allergy medications: Those that contain acetaminophen or decongestants, such as pseudoephedrine or phenylephrine are particularly toxic.
- Rodenticides (mouse poison): These may cause internal bleeding or brain swelling even in small amounts.
- Grapes and raisins: These harmless human foods cause kidney damage in dogs.
- Insect bait stations: These rarely cause poisoning in dogs. The bigger risk is bowel obstruction when dogs swallow the plastic casing.
- Prescription ADD/ADHD medications: These amphetamines such as Adderall, Concerta, Dexedrine, and Vyvanse can cause tremors, seizures, cardiac problems and death in pets.
- Glucosamine joint supplements: Overdose of products typically only cause diarrhea, however, in rare cases, liver failure can develop.
- Silica gel packets and oxygen absorbers: Silica gel packs, found in new shoes, purses or backpacks, is rarely a concern. The real threats are the iron-containing oxygen absorbers found in food packages like beef jerky or pet treats, which can cause iron poisoning.
Cats: Top 10 Toxins of 2013
- Lilies: Plants in the Lilium species, such as Easter, Tiger, and Asiatic lilies, cause kidney failure in cats. All cat owners need to be aware of these highly toxic plants since we all know cats love to chew on plants.
- Household cleaners: Most general purpose cleaners (e.g., Windex, Formula 409) are fairly safe, but concentrated products like toilet bowl or drain cleaners can cause chemical burns.
- Flea and tick spot-on products for dogs: Those that are pyrethroid based (e.g., Zodiac, K9 Advantix, Sergeant’s, etc.) cause tremors and seizures and can be deadly to cats.
- Antidepressants: Cymbalta and Effexor topped our antidepressant list in 2013. Cats seem strangely drawn to these medications. Beware – ingestion can cause severe neurologic and cardiac effects.
- NSAIDs: Cats are even more sensitive than dogs to drugs like ibuprofen and naproxen. Even veterinary specific NSAIDs like Rimadyl and Meloxicam should be used with caution.
- Prescription ADD/ADHD medications: These amphetamines such as Adderall, Concerta, Dexedrine, and Vyvanse can cause tremors, seizures, cardiac problems and death.
- Over the counter cough, cold and allergy medications: Those that contain acetaminophen (e.g., Tylenol) are particularly toxic, as they damage red blood cells and cause liver failure.
- Plants containing insoluble calcium oxalate crystals: Common houseplants like the peace lily, philodendron, and pothos can cause oral/upper GI irritation, foaming at the mouth, and inflammation when ingested, but severe symptoms are uncommon.
- Household insecticides: Thankfully, most household sprays and powders are fairly safe, but it’s best to keep curious kitties away until the products have dried or settled.
- Glow sticks and glow jewelry: These irresistible “toys” contain a chemical called dibutyl phthalate. When it contacts the mouth, pain and excessive foaming can occur.
The most important thing an animal owner can do for their pet is to become educated on household dangers. Hopefully the list above will help. Further research can always be done on the internet. Here at Veterinary Associates of Cape Cod, your pets health is what's important to us so if there are ever any questions and/or concerns, please don't hesitate to ask. When is comes to pet safety, there are no "stupid" questions.
Tuesday, February 25, 2014
One Step Ahead
If you share your house with a pet, having a first aid kit can come in handy. One way to start your kit is to buy a first-aid kit designed for people and add pet-specific items to it. You can also purchase a pet first-aid kit from a pet-supply store or
catalog. Below is a list of items that should be in your kit for those of you who want to make your own. If you perform any first aid on your pet please make sure you contact your veterinarian as soon as possible to see if any further treatment is recommended.
Pet-specific supplies
- Pet first-aid book
- Contacts: Keep a list in a place that can be easily referred to of important contacts along with their pertinent information. Such as your veterinarians name, number, address, and clinic hours. Some other important numbers to consider are the closest emergency clinic, transportation if necessary, and a poison-control center or hotline, such as the ASPCA poison control center. If you are traveling with your pet, find out where the closest clinic is and know how to get there.
- Paperwork for your pet: proof of rabies-vaccination status, copies of other important medical records, and a current photo of your pet (in case he gets lost)
- Nylon leash
- Self-cling bandage: (bandage that stretches and sticks to itself but not to fur—available at pet stores and from pet-supply catalogs)
- Muzzle or strips of cloth to prevent biting: Use with caution. If there is anything causing or could end up causing any breathing obstruction or difficulty, do NOT muzzle.
Basic first-aid supplies
- Absorbent gauze pads
- Adhesive tape
- Antiseptic wipes, lotion, powder, or spray
- Blanket or a foil emergency blanket
- Cotton balls or swabs
- Gauze rolls
- Hydrogen peroxide (to induce vomiting—do this only when directed by a veterinarian or a poison-control expert)
- Ice pack
- Non-latex disposable gloves
- Petroleum jelly (to lubricate the thermometer)
- Rectal thermometer (your pet's temperature should not rise above 103°F or fall below 100°F)
- Scissors (with blunt ends)
- Sterile non-stick gauze pads for bandages
- Sterile saline solution
- Tweezers
- A pillowcase to confine your cat for treatment
- A pet carrier
Other useful items
- Diphenhydramine (Benadryl®), if approved by a veterinarian for allergic reactions. A veterinarian must tell you the correct dosage for your pet's size.
- Ear-cleaning solution
- Glucose paste or corn syrup (for diabetic pets or those with low blood sugar)
- Nail clippers
- Non-prescription antibiotic ointment
- Flashlight
- Plastic eyedropper or syringe
- Rubbing alcohol to clean the thermometer
- Splints and tongue depressors
- Styptic powder or pencil (sold at veterinary hospitals, pet-supply stores, and your local pharmacy)
- Temporary identification tag (to put your local contact information on your pet's collar when you travel)
- Towels
- Needle-nosed pliers
In addition to the items listed above, include anything your veterinarian has recommended specifically for your pet.
*Check the supplies in your pet's first-aid kit occasionally and replace any items that have expired.Thursday, February 20, 2014
State of the Art Care with State of the Art Technology
Yes!
We have an app for that! Download your free Veterinary Associates of
Cape Cod app at the iTunes Store today! Get instant access to breaking
news such as pet food recalls, appointment requests, medication refills,
tap to call, emergency, poison control & more! For more information
see http://www.capecodvets.com/app-downloads.php Coming soon for Android.
Wednesday, February 19, 2014
Winter Safety Tips
Your pets coat may look cozy and warm, but it's not always enough when the temperature dips down into freezing. Long hair pets have slightly more insulation than short hair, but still not enough to be outside for an extended period. If the temperature drops below freezing than your pet should not be outside for more than a quick pee break unattended. This includes leaving them in a car for a lengthy duration. Some factors vary such as age and breed. Puppies and seniors are at more risk then an adults in their prime. This doesn't mean all adults. That is where breed comes in. Take the time to learn about your dogs breed to have a better judgement on their tolerance and safety.
Think of their fur coats as our winter apparel. Regardless of what you are wearing, you are still susceptible to hypothermia if exposed long enough. Apparel for your canine friend will help to a degree, but again, it is no different from our clothes, and as we all know, sometimes a jacket and thermal underwear just doesn't cut it. Boots can also help. Your pets pads are at risk for injury due to the cold and the salt that is used to make surfaces less slippery. Boots can be worn but should be broken in by your dog prior to protective use. It can take a few times wearing them for them to get the hang of it. I strongly recommend having a video camera ready the first time they try the boots. Make sure they are tight enough to not trip them up, but not tight enough to cut off circulation. If boots are not used one sign to watch for is your dog may start raising one foot at a time because they are starting to become too cold. If this occurs bring them inside and rub their paws until they are warm again. If you can't get them inside immediately because you are away on a walk, carry them if possible. If that's not possible bring them to your vet to ensure they are okay. As far as the salt goes, they do make a pet friendly salt for around your home. Keep in mind that the salt the towns use on sidewalks is NOT pet friendly. Having said that, it is also dangerous for you and your pet to walk on an icy surface. Besides frostbite, slipping and falling is almost inevitable with a dog on a leash, which can result in sprains, fractures, or even long term problems for either one of you. If you do walk on sidewalks, wipe their paws off afterwards so none of the salt gets in their mouth.
If you are near any body of water that is frozen over, keep your pet on a leash. Seriously, no matter how obedient they may be, do not chance this. It's just too dangerous and potentially devastating.
As far a our feline friends go, they should remain indoors during the winter. If you have an outdoor cat, come fall you may want to start keeping them in more often so it's not a huge shock when they are in all the time. If you have stray feral cats in your area and want to go the extra mile, you can make a small shelter out of a Rubbermaid bin and some warm, dry blankets. Supply food water as well if you can.
If you see a dog tied out on a leash, running loose without an owner in sight, left in a car, a stray cat, etc., instead of doing something that may land you behind bars, call your local police department. They will contact Animal Control.
The safest place for you and your friend on these rigid days is on their bed (or yours) in front of a warm fire, spooning with you.
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