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Saturday, June 25, 2011

Firework and Thunderstorm Phobias



The summer season brings alot of fun and outdoor activities for families and their four legged members. Unfortunately for some pets the season of Fireworks and Thunderstorms brings fear and anxiety.

How to deal with the problem in the short term.


Drugs


These may be useful in some cases but should only be given under veterinary supervision. Remember they should be given so they take effect BEFORE any noise starts or panic sets in. This is usually at least an hour prior to the event. Sedatives may help the pet sleep through the anxiety and panic but may may not calm the dog sufficiently. There are also drugs such as some of the antidepressants that can be used on an ongoing basis to try and prevent or reduce the effect of the stimulus should it arise. Then, short term drugs on the day of the fireworks (or storm) may be added to some natural products such as melatonin might also be considered concurrently with other drugs.


Punishment


Don't punish your dog when he is scared, it only confirms to him that there is something to be afraid of and will make him worse. In addition, if you are upset or anxious about your pet's behavior, this will also make your dog more anxious.

Reassurance


Don't fuss, pet or try to reassure your dog when he is scared since he may regard this as a reward for the behavior he is engaging in at that time, so that with each future exposure the behavior may become increasingly intense. Although it may be difficult, try to ignore any fearful behavior that occurs.


Training devices and commands


practice training your dog to settle and focus on commands for favored treats and toys. Thy and associate this training with a favored location in the house (one where the noise of the fireworks and storm might be less obvious-see below), and use some training cues (e.g. a favored CD, a favored blanket) each time you do the training (so that the command, location and cues help to immediately calm the dog). A head halter can also be used to help control, distract and calm the dog during training. Then at the time of the storm, use your commands, location, cues and head halter to try and calm the dog, while avoiding punishment or reassurance of the fearful response (see above).


Feeding


Feed your dog a good meal, rich in carbohydrate and with added vitamin B6, a few hours prior to the expected fireworks (or storm). To ensure a good appetite, it may be necessary not to feed him at any other time during the day. However, if your dog is prone to diarrhea when scared or at other times, please consult your veterinarian for advice regarding this strategy.


Environment


Make sure that the environment is safe and secure at all times. Even the most placid dog can behave unpredictably when frightened by noise and, should he bolt and escape, he could get injured or lost.


Can I do anything to reduce the impact of the noise and flashes from the fireworks or storms?


When the season begins, try to ensure that your dog can reside in a well-curtained or blacked out room when it starts to go back. Blacking out the room removes the potentially additional problems of flashing lights, flares ect.


Provide plenty of familiar toys and games that might help to distract the pet.


Try to arrange company for your dog so that he is not abandoned in the room.


Make sure that all the windows and doors are shut so the sound is deadened as much as possible. Try taking your pet to a room or area of the house where the stimuli will be at their mildest and the dog can be most easily distracted. Sometimes nested cardboard boxes or a blanket placed over the cage can greatly mute the sound. Be certain however that there is enough air circulation so that the pet does not overheat.


Try to provide background sounds from the radio or television. rap or similar music with a lot of constant drum beats does help. It does not necessarily have to be loud as long as there is a constant distracting beat to the music that will prevent him from concentrating on the noises outside. Other background noises and such as a fan running or even "white" noise devices can help to block outdoor noises.


Ignore the noises yourself and try to involve your pet in some form of active game.


Some products and exercises might be useful to further secure or calm the dog. Anxiety wraps, a cape or mat that reduces static, a head halter for control or TTouch therapy may help to calm the dog further.


My friend down the street has a dog that is not scared of loud noises and gets along well with mine. She has offered to lend me her dog for support. Shall I accept?


This may be an excellent strategy. Keeping the two together during the evening may help. Playing with the non-fearful dog when your own becomes scared may help to encourage him to join in and reduce his fear.


Is there anything else I can do that is worthwhile?


Don't just ignore the problem because it only happens intermittently or for a few days each year. Instigate a desensitization program once the season is over so that you ensure your dog loses fear of the situation.


remaining calm and consistant with the techniques that help your pet will ensure you and your pet a happier firework and Thunderstorm season! Good luck

Friday, June 17, 2011

Heartworm in Dogs.... and Cats?




It's true, cats can get heartworm. Though not as common as it is in dogs, heartworm is more difficult to diagnose in a cat.

In both cases, heartworm is contracted by mosquitoes. When the infected mosquito bites the dog or cat, it deposits baby heartworms (larvae). It takes several months for the heartworm to mature and migrate to the heart. Diagnosis is done by a blood test for both dogs and cats, and most heartworm tests also test for other diseases like lyme in dogs or feline leukemia in cats.

If your pet is diagnosed with heartworm, xrays of the heart should be taken to determine the condition of the heart, lungs, and vessels. A blood sample should also be examined by a cytologist for mircofilariae (heartworm offspring in the blood of infected animal). This gives a general indication of the severity of the infection.

Treatment for heartworm in dogs is done by an injectable drug given in the muscle to kill the adult heartworms in the heart and adjacent vessels. It is critical to keep your dog quiet and restrict exercise for one month following treatment. During this time the adult worms die and start to decompose. As they break up they are carried to the lungs and reabsorbed by the body. In more severe cases this can cause severe coughing, shortness of breath, fever and/or depression. Unfortunately, there is no known treatment for heartworm in cats. There are no effective drugs available, and cats that appear to be doing well may die suddenly.

The best way to treat heartworm is to prevent it. Heartworm prevention drugs like Interceptor or Heartguard can be given once a month, also topical flea prevention like Advantix for dogs and Revolution for cats repel mosquitoes, therefore assisting in preventing heartworm as well. Getting your dog tested once a year is also recommended so that if he or she does get heartworm, it can be diagnosed and treated early.

If you have more questions about heartworm, contact your veterinarian, or give us a call at 508-394-3566.

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Tis The Season for Hot Spots!!

What are "hot spots"?

Acute moist dermatitis or "hot spots" are a common skin disorder in dogs, "Hot spots" can appear suddenly and become large red, irritated lesions in a short time.

What is the cause?


"Hot spots" are the result of intense chewing and licking. The inciting cause is usually an insect bite reaction. Fleas, ticks, biting flies and even mosquitoes have been known to cause acute moist dermatitis. Allergic skin disease can also cause or contribute to the formation of "hot spots".


What does a "hot spot" look like?


It is usually a large, raw, inflamed and bleeding area of skin. The area becomes moist and painful and begins spreading due to a continued licking and chewing.



What does treatment involve?


The underlying cause should be identified and treated, if possible. Flea and tick preventives should be applied at the time of treatment. Anti-inflammatory medications and antibiotics are often used to relieve the intense itching and to combat secondary skin infection. These may be injectable drugs, oral tablets and capsules or topical preparations. The area is usually clipped and cleaned to facilitate applying any sprays or ointments on the affected area.



Friday, May 27, 2011

So Itchy!



The warm weather is finally here! Dogs and people alike are all venturing out of their homes to spend more time sun. Unfortunately for some, the spring and summer also means the onset of seasonal allergies. Over the next few months we will likely see a large number of dogs with skin, ear, and respiratory issues due to allergies.

Many things can cause allergies in dogs from food to pollen to fleas and anything in between. The most common symptom of allergies in dogs is itching of the skin and/or ears. This can be localized to one area, or it can be all over the body. Another group of symptoms involves the respiratory system with coughing, sneezing, wheezing and sometimes discharge from the eyes or nose.

The ideal treatment for a dog with allergies is to bring him or her to a dermatologist to determine what exactly they are allergic too. Sometimes, due to finances, owners elect to treat the symptoms as happen instead. All patients suffering from allergies should be seen by a vet for treatment to determine the best course of action; whether that be the use of anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, or topical solutions. Some cytology should be performed to determine if the allergic reaction is bacterial or fungal, that way your vet can decide which medication to use. If you have further questions about seasonal allergies, contact your veterinarian, or give us a call at 508-394-3566.

Friday, April 29, 2011

Why Should I Fast My Pet Before Anesthesia?



This is a commonly asked question in veterinary medicine, and one many pet owners often don't fully understand. When a dog or cat is sedated the swallow reflex in the throat is less responsive. Like people, anesthetic drugs often make animals nauseous. If the patient vomits while sedated or under general anesthesia there is high risk of aspirating, or breathing in, some of the vomited material. This can lead to a serious (sometimes fatal) condition called aspiration pneumonia. The risk of aspiration is increased in brachecephalic breeds (boxers, bulldogs, pugs) because of their anatomy.

We all love our pets and want to keep them safe, healthy, and happy. So while it may feel a little mean to send them to bed without dinner, it's one of the most important things we can do for them before undergoing anesthesia. If you have further questions about anesthesia and your pet, you may contact us at Veterinary Associates of Cape Cod or contact your local vet.

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Easter Safety Precautions

As you get ready to celebrate Easter with family and friends, keep the following precautions in mind to ensure that your furry family members stay safe and healthy.
Chocolate: Chocolate is very toxic for pets, especially dogs. Even small amounts of chocolate can be extremely dangerous. The toxic component in chocolate, theobromine, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, hyperactivity, seizure and an abnormally elevated heart rate. Different types of chocolate contain varying levels of theobromine. Dark chocolate contains the highest amount and is therefore the most toxic to dogs. Early symptoms of chocolate toxicity are vomiting, diarrhea, and trembling.

Easter Lilies: Easter Lilies are deadly for cats, so make sure you keep them completely out of cats' reach. Other potentially poisonous flowers may include tulips, Calla lilies, daisies, crysanthemums and baby's breath.

Easter Grass: Easter Grass can be life threatening for cats if ingested. The material can wrap itself around your cat's intestines and cut off circulation, requiring immediate medical intervention. Look for safer alternatives to Easter grass, such as tissue paper.

Sugar Substitutes: Xylitol, a popular sugar substitute used in sugar-free candy and in anything from sugar gum to toothpaste is highly toxic to pets. It causes a rapid drop in blood sugar and can lead to seizures and liver failure.

Friday, March 18, 2011

Disaster Preparation & Your Pets


Prepare an Emergency Supply Kit

Just as you do with your family's emergency supply kit, think first about the basics for survival, particularly food and water. Consider two kits. In one, put everything you and your pets will need to stay where you are. The other should be lightweight, smaller version you can take with you if you and your pets have to get away. Plus, be sure to review your kits regularly to ensure that their contents, especially foods and medicines are fresh.

Food: at least 3 days of food in an airtight, waterproof container.

Water: Store at least 3 days of water specifically for your pets in addition to water you need for yourself and your family.

Medicines and medical records: Keep an extra supply of medicines your pet takes on a regular basis in a waterproof container.

First Aid Kit: Talk to your veterinarian about what is most appropriate for your pet's emergency medical needs. Most kits should include cotton bandage rolls, bandage tape and scissors; antibiotic ointment; flea and tick prevention; latex gloves, isopropyl alcohol and saline solution, Include a pet first aid reference book.

Collar with ID tags harness or leash: Your pet should wear a collar with its rabies tag and identification at all times. Include a backup leash, collar and ID tag in your pet's emergency supply kit. In addition, place copies of your pet's registration information, adoption papers, vaccination documents and medical records in a clean plastic bag or waterproof container and also add them to your kit. You should also consider talking with your veterinarian about permanent identification such as microchipping, and enrolling your pet in a recovery database.


Crate or other pet carrier: If you need to evacuate in an emergency situation take your pets and animals with you provided that it is practical to do so. In many cases, your ability to do so will be aided by having a sturdy, safe, comfortable crate or carrier ready for transporting your pet. The carrier should be large enough for your pet to stand, turn around and lie down.

Sanitation: include pet litter and litter box if appropriate, newspapers, paper towels, plastic trash bags and household chlorine bleach to provide for your pet's sanitation needs. You can use bleach as a disinfectant (dilute nine parts water to one part bleach), or in an emergency you can also use it to purify water, Use 16 drops or regular household liquid bleach per gallon of water. Do not use scented or color safe bleaches, or those with added cleaners.

A Picture of you and your pet together: If you become separated from your pet during an emergency, a picture of you and your pet together will help you document ownership and allow others to assist you in identifying your pet. Include detailed information about species, breed, sex, color and distinguishing characteristics.

What Will You do in an Emergency?

Plan:
Be prepared to assess the situation. Use whatever you have on hand to take care of yourself and ensure your pet's safety during an emergency. Depending on your circumstances and the nature of the emergency the first important decision is whether you stay put or get away. You should understand and plan for both possibilities. Use common sense and the information you are learning here to determine if there is immediate danger.

In any emergency. local authorities may or may not immediately be able to provide information on what is happening and what you should do. However, watch TV, listen to the radio or check the Internet for instructions. If you're specifically told to evacuate, shelter-in-place or seek medical treatment, do so immediately.

Create a plan to get away: Plan how you will assemble your pets and anticipate where you will go. If you must evacuate, take your pets with you if practical. If you go to a public shelter, keep in mind your animals may not be allowed inside. Secure appropriate lodging in advance depending on the number and type of animals in your care. Consider family or friends willing to take in you and your pets in emergency. Other options may include: a hotel or motel that takes pets or a boarding facility, such as a kennel or veterinary hospital that is near an evacuation facility or your family's meeting place. Find out before an emergency happens if any of these facilities in your area might be viable options for you and your pets.

Develop a Buddy System: Plan with neighbors, friends or relatives to make sure that someone is available to care for or evacuate your pets if you are unable to do so. Talk with your pet care buddy about your evacuation plans and show them where you keep your pet's emergency supply kit. Also designate specific locations, one in your immediate neighborhood and another farther away, where you will meet in an emergency.

Talk to your Veterinarian about emergency planning: Discuss the types of things that you should include in your pet's emergency first aid kit. Get the names of vets or veterinary hospitals in other cities where you might need to seek temporary shelter. You should also consider talking with your veterinarian about permanent identification such as microchipping, and enrolling your pet in a recovery database. If your pet is microchipped, keeping your emergency contact information up to date and listed with a reliable recovery database is essential to your being reunited with your pet.

Stay Informed: Know about types of Emergencies. Some of the things you can do to prepare for the unexpected, such as assembling an emergency supply kit for yourself, your family, and your pets, is the same regardless of the type of emergency. However, it's important to stay informed about what might happen and know what types of emergencies are likely to affect your region as well as emergency plans that have been established by your state and local government. For more information about how to prepare, visit http://www.ready.gov/ or call 1800-BE- READY
This information was developed by the U.S. Department of Homeland Security.